Lonely Planet Laos , livre ebook

Laos

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Laos
Laos’ Top 10
Need to Know
Accommodation
What’s New
If You Like…
Month by Month
Itineraries
Outdoor Adventures
Eat & Drink Like a Local
Family Travel
Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Luang Prabang & Around
Luang Prabang
Around Luang Prabang
North of Luang Prabang
East of Luang Prabang
West of Luang Prabang
Northern Laos
Xieng Khuang & Hua Phan Provinces
Phonsavan
Plain of Jars
Muang Khoun
Sam Neua
Around Sam Neua
Sam Neua to Vietnam
Sam Neua to Nong Khiaw
Vieng Xai
Vieng Thong
Muang Ngoi District
Nong Khiaw
Muang Ngoi Neua
Phongsali Province
Muang Khua
Phongsali
Boun Neua
Northwestern Laos
Udomxai
Muang La
Luang Namtha
Vieng Phukha
Muang Sing
The Middle Mekong
Huay Xai
Pak Beng
Sainyabuli
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around
Vientiane
Around Vientiane
Phu Khao Khuay NPA
Vang Vieng
Central Laos
Bolikhamsai & Khammuan Provinces
Phu Hin Bun NPA & Tham Kong Lor
Tha Khaek
Hin Namno NPA & Around
Nakai–Nam Theun National Park & Around
Savannakhet Province
Savannakhet
Dong Phu Vieng NPA & Around
Southern Laos
Pakse Region
Pakse
Around Pakse
Don Kho, Ban Saphai & Ban Don Khoh
Phu Xieng Thong NPA
Tat Phasuam
Champasak
Around Champasak
Wat Phu World Heritage Area
Kiet Ngong
Bolaven Plateau Region
Paksong Area
Tat Lo
Salavan
Attapeu
Si Phan Don
Don Khong
Don Det & Don Khon

Understand

History
People & Culture
Environment

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z
Accessible Travel
Bargaining
Climate
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
Etiquette
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
LGBT+ Travellers
Money
Photography
Post
Public Holidays
Safe Travel
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Visas
Volunteering
Women Travellers
Work
Transport
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Land
GETTING AROUND
Air
Bicycle
Boat
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Local Transport
Train
Health
Before You Go
Insurance
Medical Checklist
Medication
Websites
In Laos
Availability & Cost of Healthcare
Infectious Diseases
Environmental Hazards
Women’s Health
Traditional Medicine
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to Laos

Vivid nature, voluptuous landscapes and a vibrant culture collide with a painful past and optimistic future to make Laos an enigmatic experience for the adventurous.

An Authentic Asia
Laos cherishes many of the traditions that have disappeared in a frenzy of development elsewhere in the region. It’s hard to believe somnolent Vientiane is an Asian capital, and there’s a timeless quality to rural life, where stilt houses and paddy fields look like they are straight out of a movie set. Magical Luang Prabang bears witness to hundreds of saffron-robed monks gliding through the streets every morning in a call to alms, one of the region’s iconic images. Intrepid travellers will discover a country untainted by mass tourism and Asia in slow motion.

A Kaleidoscope of People
Laos is one of the most ethnically diverse countries in the region, reflecting its geographic location as a crossroads of Asia. The hardy Hmong people live off the land in the remote mountains of the north, Kahu and Alak elders in the south still have traditional face tattoos, and the Katang villagers of central Laos sleep with forest spirits. Whether it is the cities of the lowlands or the villages of the highlands, Laos offers wonderful opportunities for local interaction. However, change is coming as a new high-speed railway will cut across the country, criss-crossing some of these isolated communities.

Fifty Shades of Green
With its dark and brooding jungle, glowing emerald rice fields, and glistening tea leaves that blanket the mountains, the landscape in Laos changes shades of green like a chameleon. But it’s not just the luscious landscapes that are green: when it comes to ecotourism, Laos is leading the way in Southeast Asia. Protected areas blanket the landscape, and community-based trekking initiatives combine these spectacular natural attractions with the chance to experience the ‘real Laos’ with a village homestay, helping contribute to the local community and preserve the environment.

Eclectic Asia
Travellers rave about Laos for a reason. Adventure seekers can lose themselves in underground river caves, on jungle ziplines or while climbing karsts. Nature enthusiasts can take a walk on the wild side and spot exotic animals such as gibbons or elephants. Culture lovers can explore ancient temples and immerse themselves in Lao spiritual life. Foodies can spice up their lives with a Lao cooking class or go gourmand in the French-accented cities. And if all this sounds a little too strenuous, then unwind with a spa session or yoga class. Eclectic Laos caters for everyone.

Xieng Khuan | PERFECT LAZYBONES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love Laos
By Nick Ray, Writer
I first came to Laos as a backpacker in 1995 and quickly succumbed to the incredible beauty of the natural landscapes and the warm-hearted welcome. There have been many memorable trips since and this enigmatic country still charms. On this trip, I headed north to the mysterious Vieng Xai Caves and took some long boat trips on the Nam Ou from beautiful Nong Khiaw to reach remote Phongsali Province. However, it is Luang Prabang that really leaves an impression thanks to its enticing combination of historic temples, living culture, evolving cuisine scene and rural upcountry adventures.
For more, see Our Writers
Laos’ Top 10

Luang Prabang
Bordered by the Mekong River and the Nam Khan (Khan River), this timeless city of temples is the stuff of travel legends: rich in royal history, saffron-clad monks, stunning river views, world-class cuisine and some of the best boutique accommodation in the region. Hire a bike and explore the tropical peninsula’s backstreets, take a cooking class or just ease back with a restful massage at one of the many affordable spas. Prepare to adjust your timetable and stay a little longer than expected.

Wat Xieng Thong | ART65395/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Si Phan Don
Laos’ hammock-flopping mecca has been catering to weary travellers for years. While these tropical islands bounded by the waters of the Mekong are best known as a happy haven for catatonic sun worshippers, more active souls are spoilt for choice. Between tubing and cycling through paddy fields, grab a kayak, spot rare Irrawaddy dolphins, and then round off your day with a sunset boat trip. Don’t miss a side trip to the largest falls in Laos, the mighty Khon Phapheng (pictured), often referred to as the Niagara Falls of Laos.

JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

Vientiane
Meandering along the banks of the Mekong, Vientiane is surely Southeast Asia’s most languid capital. The wide streets are bordered by tamarind trees and the narrow alleys conceal French villas, Chinese shophouses and glittering wats. The city brews a heady mix of street vendors, wandering Buddhist monks, fine cuisine, boutique hotels and a healthy vibe that sees visitors slinking off for spa treatments and turning their time to yoga and cycling. It may not have Luang Prabang’s looks, but Vientiane has a certain charm all of its own.

Pha That Luang | JIGGOTRAVELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Vang Vieng
The riverine jewel in Laos’ karst country, Vang Vieng sits under soaring cliffs beside the Nam Song (Song River) and is the undisputed adventure capital of Laos. Since the party crowd moved on, tranquillity reigns again with more family-oriented visitors dropping in to soak up such well-organised activities as hot-air ballooning, trekking, caving and climbing. And don’t forget the original draw: tubing down the river. Where once there were only budget guesthouses and same-same traveller cafes, now they have been joined by smarter boutique hotels and restaurants serving delicious food.

EM7/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Trekking & Homestays
Laos is famous for its wide range of community-based treks, many of which include a traditional homestay in a local ethnic minority village for a night or more. Trekking is possible all over the country, but northern Laos is one of the most popular areas. Luang Namtha is the most accessible base for ecotreks in the Nam Ha NPA, one of the best-known trekking spots in the Mekong region, and there are lots of local homestays available in Lanten, Khmu and Tai Daeng communities.

Lanten woman near Luang Namtha | BARTOSZ HADYNIAK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Vieng Xai Caves
This is history writ large in stone. An area of outstanding natural beauty, Vieng Xai was home to the Pathet Lao communist leadership during the US bombing campaign of 1964–73. Beyond the breathtaking beauty of the natural caves, it is the superb audio tour that really brings the experience alive. When the bombers buzz overhead to a soundtrack of Jimi Hendrix you’ll be ducking for cover in the Red Prince’s lush garden. It’s a long, hard journey to this remote corner of the country, but well worth the effort.

HAVE CAMERA WILL TRAVEL | ASIA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Top Experiences

Tham Kong Lor
Imagine your deepest nightmare: the snaggle-toothed mouth of a river cave beneath a towering limestone mountain, the boatman in his rickety longtail taking you into the heart of darkness. Puttering beneath the cathedral-high ceiling of stalactites in this extraordinary 7.5km-long underworld in remote Khammuan Province is an awesome experience. You’ll be glad to see light at the end of the tunnel. The village of Ban Kong Lor is now the most convenient base for visiting the cave, after an influx of guesthouses and small resorts in the last few years.

VINCENT JARY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

River Trips
River trips are a major feature of travel through Laos. One of the most