Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul , livre ebook

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Seoul
Top Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Outdoor Seoul
Architecture
Museums & Galleries
K-Pop & K-Indie
Palaces, Temples & Shrines
For Kids
LGBT
For Free
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Seoul Neighbourhoods

Explore Seoul

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu
Myeong-dong & Jung-gu
Western Seoul
Itaewon & Yongsan-gu
Gangnam & Southern Seoul
Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul

Worth a Trip

DMZ & JSA

Survival Guide

Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Seoul
Getting Around
Essential Information
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to Seoul

Fashion- and technology-forward but also deeply traditional, Seoul mashes up palaces, temples, cutting-edge design and mountain trails, all to a nonstop K-Pop beat. A fascinating mix of old and new, this dynamic city balances traditional culture with contemporary attractions. With amazing food, happening nightlife and a lively arts scene, Seoul is enjoying a renaissance not to be missed.

Gyeongbokgung | Topic Images Inc/Getty Images ©
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Seoul Top Sights

Bukchon Hanok Village
Area with fascinating traditional homes.

CURIOSO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

Bongeun-sa
Future Buddha meets futuristic Gangnam.

NATTEE CHALERMTIRAGOOL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

Deoksugung
Seoul’s only illuminated evening palace.

THANACHAI SRISAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

The DMZ
Surreal symbol of the Cold War.

HANG DINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

Changdeokgung
Beautiful palace hiding a secret garden.

JULIE MAYFENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

Gyeongbokgung
Seoul’s most monumental royal palace.

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Seoul Top Sights

N Seoul Tower & Namsan
Iconic Seoul mountaintop views.

DKCYUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Seoul Top Sights

Noryangjin Fish Market
Seoul’s exciting seafood-eating experience.

ONE_CLEAR_VISION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

National Museum of Korea
Explore Korea’s history.

BRIAN COLELLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Seoul Top Sights

War Memorial of Korea
Military history and hardware.

KIM JIHYUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seoul Top Sights

Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park
Architectural masterpiece.

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Seoul Top Sights

Olympic Park
The city’s artiest outdoor museum.

KOREAKHW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Eating

Sampling the many delights of Korean cuisine is one of Seoul’s great pleasures. Restaurants, cafes and street stalls are scattered throughout every neighbourhood with options to suit all budgets and tastes – whether that’s simple rice and vegetables, a DIY barbecue blowout or the procession of banchan (side dishes) that takes up a royal court banquet.

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Food Trends
Though Korean taste buds lean towards their own cuisine, young Seoulites gobble up global food trends at a startling rate. Seoul’s restaurant scene now rivals those of Hong Kong and Shanghai as the most dynamic in Asia.
Ongoing trends include anything Americana, including New York–style pizza, Maine lobster or Alabama brisket. Thai and Vietnamese were red hot at time of research, and KoMex (Korean-Mexican fusion) continues to reign with its kimchi tacos and other fusion fare.

Street Stalls
Street stalls and pojangmacha (tent bars) are great for inexpensive meals, and some open long after most restaurants close. Areas in Insa-dong, Myeong-dong and markets at Gwangjang, Namdaemun and Dongdaemun are the best spots to dig in with locals.

Vegetarians & Vegans
Though vegetarian and vegan travellers generally have a tough time elsewhere in Korea, Seoul offers a much greater choice of meat- and dairy-free eating options. As well as Korean dishes such as bibimbap (pictured; rice, egg, meat and vegies with chilli sauce; order it without meat, or egg), a few tofu dishes and vegetable pajeon (savoury fried pancakes), there are several traditional restaurants that specialise in 100% vegetarian Buddhist temple food. Western-style vegetarian/vegan restaurants are becoming more common, and you can find traditionally vegetarian international cuisine such as Indian and Middle Eastern.

Best Korean
Jungsik Neo-Korean fine dining at affordable prices.
Noryangjin Fish Market Super-fresh fish dinners at Korea’s largest seafood market.
Congdu Subtle, contemporary takes on classic Korean dishes.
Samwon Garden The quintessential galbi (beef ribs) experience.
Gwangjang Market Delicious, cheap street food in a bustling market.
Onion Delectable baked goods and coffee in Seoul’s hippest cafe.
Best Bakeries & Cafes
Passion 5 Glitzy arcade with gourmet baked goods and patisserie.
Seoureseo Duljjaero Jalhaneunjip Time travel to the ’70s while enjoying red-bean porridge.
Tartine The best American-style pecan pies this side of the Pacific.
Best Vegetarian & Vegan
Balwoo Gongyang Buddhist vegetarian feasts overlooking Jogye-sa.
Plant Cafe & Kitchen Vegan mains and baked goods in Itaewon.
Rogpa Tea Stall Fair-trade Tibetan dishes in a charming teahouse.
Raw Vega Raw, organic, vegan and gluten-free dining.
Best International Cuisine
Linus’ BBQ Alabama-style barbecue.
Coreanos Kitchen Lively KoMex restaurant specialising in fusion fajitas.
Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Uncompromising flavours at a top Thai restaurant.

Drinking & Nightlife

From antique teahouses and coffee roasters to craft-beer pubs and cocktail bars, Seoul offers an unbelievable number of places to relax over a drink. No-frills hof (pubs) are everywhere, and don’t miss that quintessential Seoul nightlife experience: soju (local vodka) shots and snacks at a pojangmacha

KELLI HAYDEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Drinking Trends
Makgeolli, a milky alcoholic brew popular among the older generation, is now a hit with the young and trendy. Made from unrefined fermented rice, makgeolli clocks in at about 5% to 8% ABV. Seoul has several bars specialising in the drink where a range of varieties and flavours can be savoured. These venues often sell pajeon, said to be the perfect pairing.
Until recently beer (maekju) was limited to ubiquitous and cheap local brands, all lagers, including Cass, Max and Hite. The craft-beer revolution has well and truly hit Seoul, though, with microbreweries and brewpubs producing locally inspired ales, and imported beers available in many bars and restaurants.

Hof & Bars
Drinking, and drinking heavily, is very much a part of Korean socialising, and many a big night out starts and finishes in a hof . Inspired by German beer halls, the term generally means any watering hole that serves primarily draught Korean beer, with the requisite plate of fried chicken and other anju (snacks commonly eaten when drinking). Always check whether a bar requires you to buy a plate of anju before drinking; places that don’t are called ‘one-shot’ bars.
If you’re looking for something more sophisticated, there are plenty of craft-beer bars, cocktail bars and quirky drinking dens in places such as Itaewon, Hongdae, Sinchon and Gangnam.

Best for Cocktails & Wine
Southside Parlor Artisan cocktails by hipster mixologists.
Fox Wine Bistro Top selection of wines in Hongdae.
N.Grill Open-air bar with amazing views from N Seoul Tower.
Namsan Winery Low-key Itaewon venue with affordable Iberian wines.
Best Microbrew Bars
Magpie Brewing Co One of Seoul’s originals pouring a range of celebrated craft ales.
Made in Pongdang Brews and sells a range of Korean craft beers from pale ales to blondes to sours.
Amazing Brewing Co Hip local microbrewery in Seongsu-dong.
Best for Traditional Alcohol
Mowmow Itaewon makgeolli dive off the busy bar strip.
Moon Jar Smart and rustic bar with a good menu.
Blue Star Pub Brass kettles full of makgeolli served in a divey hang-out.
Muldwinda Most stylish bar for sampling fine-grade makgeolli .
Best for Clubbing
Club Octagon Gangnam megaclub regarded as one of the world’s best.
Cakeshop Fun-lovin’, underground club in Itaewon.
Soap Itaewon basement club pulling in world-class DJs.
NB2 Sociable, high-energy club in Hongdae.

Shopping

With endless markets, multistorey department stores and glitzy malls, shopping is a 24-7 pursuit in consumerist Seoul. Whether it’s for hanbok (traditional clothing) or hanji (handmade paper), art-and-design pieces, cut-price cosmetics or K-Pop souvenirs, chances are slim that you will leave empty-handed.

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Always in Fashion
For clothing, shoes and accessories, Dongdaemun Market and the surrounding high-rise malls offer the city’s biggest selection, though the area is sprawling and much of it is geared up for wholesale and fabrics. The narrow, brightly lit streets of Myeong-dong are more shopper-friendly and stock plenty of local brands. Larger sizes in clothes and shoes, souvenir T-shirts, leather jackets and tailor-made clothing can be found in Itaewon, where English is widely understood.
Outfits by hot local K-designers – such as Lie Sang Bong, Kathleen Kye, fleamadonna, Doii Lee and Misung Jung – are best sourced in major department stores or the boutiques of Myeong-dong, Apgujeong and Cheongdam. For high-end fashion the ritzy Apgujeong Rodeo Drive in Gangnam district is a must.

Crafts & Souvenirs
Traditional souvenirs such as embroidery, patchwork wrapping cloths (bojagi), hanji, wooden masks, fans, painted wooden carvings and lacquerware boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl (najeon chilgi) can be found at craft and souvenir shops throughout Insa-dong, the city’s best shopping area for Seoul-inspired goodies to take home. For a more limited, albeit cheaper, selection of souvenirs, check out Buildings C and D at Namdaemun Market.

Best Markets
Namdaemun Market Korea’s largest and most atmospheric market.
Gwangjang Market Most famous for food, but also has vintage clothing and textiles.
Dongdaemun Market Energetic 24-hour shopping and good marke