Lonely Planet Pocket Kyoto & Osaka , livre ebook

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Kyoto & Osaka
Top Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping & Markets
Architecture & Gardens
Arts & Culture
Temples & Shrines
For Kids
For Free
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Kyoto Neighbourhoods
Osaka Neighbourhoods

Explore Kyoto

Kyoto Station & South Kyoto
Downtown Kyoto
Gion & Southern Higashiyama
Northern Higashiyama
Imperial Palace & Around

Explore Osaka

Minami
Kita

Survival Guide

Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Kyoto
Arriving in Osaka
Getting Around
Essential Information
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to Kyoto & Osaka

Kyoto is old Japan writ large: quiet temples, sublime gardens, colourful shrines, postcard-perfect street scenes and geisha scurrying to secret liaisons. While Osaka’s grey concrete jungle is no match in terms of beauty, this fast-paced, brash city, cloaked in dazzling neon, packs a punch with its excellent food and nightlife scenes, and locals full of personality.

Yasaka-jinja from Sannen-zaka | GUITAR PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights

1 Kinkaku-ji , Kyoto
Golden brilliance and stunning gardens.

THOMAS LA MELA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Fushimi Inari-Taisha , Kyoto
A sprawling Shintō shrine spectacle.

PATRYK KOSMIDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Ginkaku-ji , Kyoto
A temple garden paradise.

COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Gion , Kyoto
Glimpse the world of geisha.

JURI POZZI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Chion-in , Kyoto
Pilgrimage temple buzzing with activity.

PHIL WEYMOUTH/LONELY PLANET ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Kiyomizu-dera , Kyoto
Ancient temple overlooking the city.

SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Dōtombori , Osaka
Famous neon-lit night scene.

GAGLIARDIIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Nanzen-ji , Kyoto
Zen temple complex with views.

SUPERJOSEPH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Nishiki Market , Kyoto
Wonderful ingredients of Kyoto cuisine.

GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Nijō-jō , Kyoto
Japan’s feudal military might.

COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Daitoku-ji , Kyoto
Exploring a world of Zen gardens.

TUPUNGATO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kyoto & Osaka Top Sights
1 Osaka-jō , Osaka
Historic castle and Osaka landmark.

COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Eating

Kyoto is one of the world’s great food cities. In fact, when you consider atmo-sphere, service and quality, it’s hard to think of a city where you get more bang for your dining buck. You can pretty much find a great dining option in any neighbourhood, but the majority of the best spots are clustered downtown. Osaka has a rich food culture, too, which ranks as the number one reason to visit.

LOTTIE DAVIES/LONELY PLANET ©

Kaiseki (Kyoto)
Where ingredients, setting and presentation come together to create a refined dining experience unlike any other. Kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) is usually eaten in the private room of a ryōtei (traditional, high-class restaurant) or ryokan.

Tofu-ryōri (Kyoto)
Kyoto is famed for its tofu (soybean curd), a result of the city’s excellent water and large population of (theoretically) vegetarian Buddhist monks. There are many exquisite yudōfu (tofu cooked in a pot) restaurants in Northern Higashiyama along the roads around Nanzen-ji, and in the Arashiyama area.

Tako-yaki (Osaka)
Doughy dumplings stuffed with octopus ( tako in Japanese) often sold as street food, topped with savoury sauce, powdered aonori (seaweed), mayonnaise and bonito flakes, and eaten with toothpicks. The centre can be molten hot.

Okonomiyaki (Osaka)
Thick, savoury pancakes filled with shredded cabbage and your choice of meat, seafood or vegetables. Often prepared on a teppan (steel plate) set into your table.

Best Kaiseki
Kitcho Arashiyama , Kyoto No-holds-barred kaiseki served in superb private rooms.
Kikunoi , Kyoto Wonderful kaiseki in a classic setting.
Shoubentango-tei , Osaka Osaka-style kaiseki in a 100-year-old restaurant.
Giro Giro Hitoshina , Kyoto Affordable kaiseki, minus the pomp and formality.
Best Sushi
Sushi no Musashi , Kyoto Convenient and cheap downtown sushi-train restaurant.
Tsukiji Sushisei , Kyoto High-quality sushi in an approachable setting.
Daiki Suisan , Osaka Large sushi-train restaurant with a prime location.
Best Soba & Udon
Honke Owariya , Kyoto Filling soba and udon in a quiet downtown spot.
Omen Kodai-ji , Kyoto Wonderful noodles in a smart setting in Southern Higashiyama.
Imai Honten , Osaka One of the oldest udon noodle specialists.
Best Ramen
Ippūdō , Kyoto Tasty Kyūshū-style ramen and crispy gyōza (dumplings).
Kyoto Rāmen Kōji , Kyoto Choice of nine ramen joints in Kyoto Station.
Kinryū Ramen , Osaka People-watch in Dōtombori as you slurp back cheap noodles.
Best Okonomiyaki
Chibō , Osaka City’s most famous okonomiyaki spot, with long queues.
Nishiki Warai , Kyoto Convenient casual eatery near Nishiki Market.

Top Tips
A Check out department store basements for gourmet shops, while the upper floors usually have a resutorangai (restaurant city).
A Many of Kyoto’s kaiseki restaurants serve a delicious lunch set that costs a fraction of the dinner price.

VICHAILAO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Drinking & Nightlife

Kyoto and Osaka are both cities with endless options for drinking, whether it’s an expertly crafted single-origin coffee in a cafe, matcha (powdered green tea) at a traditional tearoom, carefully crafted cocktails and single malts in a sophisticated six-seater bar, or Japanese craft beer in a brewery.

SHAIITH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Beer
Beer is the overwhelming favourite drink to have with dinner, but gone are the days of simply having the well-known brands, Asahi, Sapporo, Kirin etc, on the menu. Craft beer is changing the beer landscape in Kyoto and Osaka, with breweries and bars specialising in Japanese craft beer.

Sake
While beer is the popular choice, sake (nihonshū; ) is making a comeback in the old capital. It’s especially popular with sushi and kaiseki and at izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries). Sake is usually consumed cold in Japan, especially the good stuff, but some people order it hot (the Japanese word for this is atsukan ) at more casual places like izakaya and yakitori restaurants.

Shōchū
Shōchū is popular throughout Japan and is a clear spirit typically made from potato and barley. At around an average alcohol content of 30%, it’s a drink that packs a potent punch. It’s usually served diluted with hot water (oyu-wari) or in a chūhai cocktail mixed with soft drinks. It’s on the menu at izakaya and you can buy chūhai cans in supermarkets and konbini (convenience stores) .
Best Cocktail Bars
Bar K6 , Kyoto Single malts and expertly mixed cocktails are the draw at this smart local gathering spot.
Tōzan Bar , Kyoto The basement bar at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto is worth a trip for the design alone.
Bee’s Knees , Kyoto Speakeasy-style bar with creative cocktails.
40 Sky Bar & Lounge , Osaka Classy bar with stunning views at the Conrad Osaka hotel.

Best Craft Beer
Bungalow , Kyoto Cool industrial downtown bar with great beer.
Kyoto Brewing Company , Kyoto Great little tasting room with a local vibe.
Beer Belly , Osaka Osaka’s best microbrewery.
Craft Beer Base , Osaka Bottle shop/bar with a great range of craft beer.
Best Clubs
World , Kyoto Huge club with a calendar of events.
Circus , Osaka In the centre of the city’s underground electronica scene.
Best Tea & Coffee
Weekenders Coffee , Kyoto Some of the city’s best coffee in a tiny downtown spot.
Brooklyn Roasting Company , Osaka Hip riverside cafe with an industrial feel.
Kiln , Kyoto Great brews to go with pretty canal views.
Kaboku Tearoom , Kyoto Cafe attached to Kyoto’s famous Ippōdō Tea store.
Kurasu , Kyoto Expertly made coffee close to Kyoto Station.
Kissa Madura , Osaka Long-running retro cafe popular with locals.

Kyoto in a Glass Matcha

DIANA TALIUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Five Places to Try Matcha
Toraya Karyō Kyoto Ichijō
Kasagi-ya
Shōren-in
Ōkōchi Sansō
Kaboku Tearoom

Matcha in Kyoto
Kyoto is traditionally known for its high-quality green tea and the art of the ancient tea ceremony. Matcha is high in caffeine and is served at tea ceremonies and in teahouses at many temples in the city. The powdered tea is whisked into an emulsion and drunk unstrained.
If you prefer milk with your matcha , many cafes serve the bright-green tea in latte form.

Whisking powdered matcha | GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET ©

Shopping & Markets

Kyoto and Osaka have a fantastic variety of both traditional and modern shops, and some fantastic markets. Whether you’re looking for fans, kimonos and tea, or the latest electronics, hip fashion and ingenious gadgets, these two cities have plenty to offer.

SANN VON MAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Where to Shop in Kyoto
Shopping neighbourhoods in Kyoto tend to be organised by speciality, which makes things easier if you’re after specific items. Here are some of Kyoto’s most important shopping streets and what you’ll find there:
Teramachi-dōri, north of Oike-dōri
Traditional Japanese crafts, tea-ceremony goods, green tea and antiques.
Teramachi-dōri , south of Shijō-dōri
Electronics and computers.
Shijō-dōri, between Kawaramachi-dōri and Karasuma-dōri
Department stores, fashion boutiques and traditional arts and crafts.
Shinmonzen-dōri
Antiques.
Gojō-zaka
Pottery.

Where to Shop in Osaka
Osaka Station
The station is ringed by malls and department stores (all interconnected by underground passages), making the Umeda district one big shopping conurbation. You’ll find outlets of the most popular national chains here, including Uniqlo, Muji, Tokyu Hands and Yodobashi Umeda, a