Good Bread Is Back , livre ebook

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2006

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381

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2006

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In Good Bread Is Back, historian and leading French bread expert Steven Laurence Kaplan takes readers into aromatic Parisian bakeries as he explains how good bread began to reappear in France in the 1990s, following almost a century of decline in quality. Kaplan describes how, while bread comprised the bulk of the French diet during the eighteenth century, by the twentieth, per capita consumption had dropped off precipitously. This was largely due to social and economic modernization and the availability of a wider choice of foods. But part of the problem was that the bread did not taste good. In a culture in which bread is sacrosanct, bad bread was more than a gastronomical disappointment; it was a threat to France's sense of itself. By the mid-1990s bakers rallied, and bread officially designated as "bread of the French tradition" was in demand throughout Paris. Kaplan meticulously describes good bread's ideal crust and crumb (interior), mouth feel, aroma, and taste. He discusses the breadmaking process in extraordinary detail, from the ingredients to the kneading, shaping, and baking, and even the sound bread should make when it comes out of the oven. Kaplan does more than tell the story of the revival of good bread in France. He makes the reader see, smell, taste, feel, and even hear why it is so very wonderful that good bread is back.
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Publié par

Date de parution

20 décembre 2006

Nombre de lectures

3

EAN13

9780822388289

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

1 Mo

Praise for the French edition ofGood Bread Is Back:
‘‘It is thanks to a celebrated American historian, impassioned by French bread, that the consumer dormant in all of us has finally awakened. . . . Steven Kaplan conducts an investiga-tion into the realm of the bakery and confirms the renais-sance of the baguette. A best-seller to savor slice by slice.’’ Madame Figaro
‘‘This impassioned and tasty book is also a plea for a French-style art of living, of which our American in Paris casts him-self as the defender with still more fervor than the natives themselves.’’ Quinzaine littéraire
‘‘In asking the question: ‘What is good bread?’ [Steven Kap-lan] brilliantly blends history, technology, and the gusta-tory approach to the legend of bread, and draws evocative portraits of the principal actors of the renaissance of the bakery.’’ —Jean-Claude Ribaut, food critic ofLe Monde
‘‘It is to an American citizen that we owe the most masterly work ever published on the genius of French bread. Its mas-tery lies in the immensity of the undertaking, the rigor of the research, and the incredible erudition amassed in this voyage to the heart of our national bakery.’’ —Perico Lagasse, food and wine critic forMarianne
GOOD BREAD IS BACK
GOOD BREAD IS BACK
A contemporary history of French bread,
the way it is made, and the people who make it   
Translated by Catherine Porter
Duke University PressDurham & London
©  Duke University Press Originally published asLe retour du bon pain: une histoire contemporaine du pain, de ses techniques et de ses hommes. © Perrin, . All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper  Designed by Amy Ruth Buchanan Typeset in Dante by Tseng Information Systems, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data appear on the last printed page of this book.
Duke University Press gratefully acknowledges the support of   , which provided funds toward the translation, production, and marketing of this book.
We also gratefully acknowledge the support of    /  . Ouvrage publié avec le concours du      —   .
For MarieChristine
Contents
Introduction
. Good Bread: Practices and Discourses
. Bread: The Double Crisis
. White Bread: A Western Story
. The Enemy

. Bakeries and the State




. Bound to Quarrel, Condemned to Get Along: Millers and Bakers
. Rue Monge Rivals and Other Mavericks
Conclusion

Acknowledgments
Notes
Glossary
Index





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