Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections , livre ebook

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L. Reddy-Best Kelly , T. Ordonez Margaret

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135

pages

English

Ebooks

0001

Lire un extrait

Obtenez un accès à la bibliothèque pour le consulter en ligne En savoir plus

Publié par

Kent State University Press

Date de parution

01 janvier 0001

Nombre de lectures

EAN13

9781631014628

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

7 Mo

A manual and guide for preserving unique materials in fashion such as rayon, paper, and plastics

Continuous innovation and experimentation with the materials used in constructing textiles, apparel, and accessories creates an ever-growing challenge for professional curators and collectors. Recognizing problematic fibers, dyes, finishes, and fabric and yarn constructions is crucial for maintaining objects’ appearance, minimizing deterioration, and isolating those that are potentially harmful to other objects.

A comprehensive guide to problematic 20th-century textiles, Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections provides a manual for the identification, care, and damage reduction of seven different categories of objects and textiles. Robust in their research, Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Margaret Ordoñez guide readers through the damaging properties of various materials such as adhesives and plastics and provide textile-specific cleaning, storage, and exhibition advice. Even as they provide such details, Reddy-Best and Ordoñez ensure that the manual is easy to navigate as an essential reference, including scores of photographs to illustrate each topic. From environmental concerns to exhibition problems, this guide stands apart for its exhaustiveness, creating a singular guide to 20th-century textile and garment queries. The authors combine information from contemporary publications and interviews of textile experts to provide readers with important information on the aging properties of and best conservation practices for unstable 20th-century apparel, accessories, and textiles.

Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections is perfect for textile collection managers, curators, and conservators as well as graduate students considering both the history and preservation of such items.

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Publié par

Kent State University Press

Date de parution

01 janvier 0001

EAN13

9781631014628

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

7 Mo

Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections

Costume Society of America Book Series

Edîtor Jeîer Mower

Edîtorîa Board

Lîda Baumgarte Jea L. Drueŝedow Reecca Jumper-Mateŝo Dare-Jama Lîŝy Jea L. Parŝoŝ Sara J. Rogerŝ Artî Sadu Caŝey Staard

Te Coŝtume Socîety o Amerîca ook ŝerîeŝ îcudeŝ workŝ o a ŝujectŝ reated to te îŝtory ad uture o aŝîo, dreŝŝ, coŝtume, appearace ad adormet, îcudîg îŝtorîca reŝearc, curret îŝŝueŝ, curatorîa topîcŝ, cotemporary deŝîg ad coŝtructîo practîceŝ, ad coŝervatîo tecîqueŝ. Teŝe ookŝ rage rom ŝcoary to more geera îtereŝt ad vary wîdey î ormat aŝ we, rom prîmarîy textua to eavîy î-uŝtrated. Te ŝerîeŝ emraceŝ a varîety o ŝpecîatîeŝ, îcudîg atropoogy ad croŝŝ-cutura ŝtudîeŝ, cotemporary aŝîo îŝŝueŝ, textîeŝ, muŝeumŝ ad exîîtŝ, reŝearc metodŝ, peror-mace, ad crat or aŝîo deŝîg.

Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections

Carîg or Proematîc Twetîet-Cetury Textîeŝ, Appare, ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ

Kelly L. ReddyBest and Margaret T. Ordoñez

he Kent State University Press Kent, OHio

Isbn 978-1-60635-428-5 Mauactured î te Uîted Stateŝ o Amerîca

No part o tîŝ ook may e uŝed or reproduced, î ay maer wat-ŝoever, wîtout wrîtte permîŝŝîo rom te Puîŝer, except î te caŝe o ŝort quotatîoŝ î crîtîca revîewŝ or artîceŝ.

Cataogîg îormatîo or tîŝ tîte îŝ avaîae at te Lîrary o Cogreŝŝ.

26 25 24 23 22

5 4 3 2 1

Contents

Acknowledgmentsvii

Introduction 1

Fibers9 Rayo Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 9 Paper Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 12 Acetate Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 15 Farîcŝ wît Gaŝŝ Fîametŝ 18 Nyo Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 19 Caŝeî-Baŝed Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 21 Garmetŝ, Acceŝŝorîeŝ, ad Home Furîŝîgŝ wît Sara 23 Poyeŝter Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 24 Acryîc Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 25 Modacryîc Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ 27 Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ wît Ruer Compoetŝ 28 Garmetŝ ad Acceŝŝorîeŝ wît Spadex 31

2Constructions Fabric 35 35Maî Stîtc-Boded Farîcŝ Fake Fur 36 Nowove ïmîtatîo-Suede Farîcŝ 38

3 Printed Components41 41Pîgmet Prîtŝ Lacquer Prîtŝ 43

4 Coatings45 Cuŝîo-Cover Farîcŝ 45 46Dow- ad Feater-Fîed Garmetŝ 48Poyuretae- ad Uretae-Coated Farîcŝ

viContents

Poyvîy Corîde–Coated Farîcŝ Rubber-Coated Fabrîcs 53

Adhesives57 Garments and Accessorîes wîth Bonded Ornamentatîon Bonded and Lamînated Fabrîcs 60 Fusîble Interfacîngs and Interlînîngs 62 Chem Stîtch Fabrîcs 65 Flocked Fabrîcs 67 Adhered Seams, Hems, and Pleats 71 Bonded-Wool Shoulder Pads and Quîlted Lînîngs 72

Finishes77 Chîntz Fabrîcs 77 Cîré Fabrîcs 79 Moîré Fabrîcs 80 Fabrîcs wîth Sîzîngs 82 Fabrîcs wîth Wrînkle-Resîstant Fînîshes 84 Fabrîcs wîth Water-Repellent and Waterproof Fînîshes

7 Plastics89 90Cellulose-Nîtrate Accessorîes 94Cellulose-Acetate Accessorîes, Adornments, and Buttons Polystyrene Buttons and Ornamentatîon 96 Garments wîth Polyurethane Foam 97 Unspecîied-Plastîc Buttons, Beads, and Sequîns Adornments

Appendix: Generic Manufactured Fiber and Yarn Trade Names and Dates105

Notes

110

Bibliography

Index

122

119

100

Acknowledgments

he autorŝ tak Harry Kîmme, commuîcatîoŝ dîrector o te Dryceaerŝ ad Laudry ïŝtîtute (DLï), or acîîtatîg acceŝŝ to DLï arcîveŝ ad aŝŝîŝtîg wît potograpy. He aŝ ee very ŝupportîve o tîŝ reŝearc efort. he may aayŝtŝ o te DLï aayŝîŝ departmet deŝerve ŝpecîa recogîtîo or teîr îŝîgtu evauatîoŝ ad reportŝ o coŝumerŝ’ proemŝ. hakŝ aŝo go to Uîverŝîty o Rode ïŝad (URï) acuty Lîda Weterŝ; Suŝa Hae; Martî Bîde; ad Pat Hemŝ, Proeŝŝor Emerîta. Rîta Hîde aŝo provîded îŝîgtu îormatîo aout textîe productŝ. Marta W. Grîmm ŝared er expertîŝe î coŝervîg paper dreŝŝeŝ. We ap-precîate te aŝŝîŝtace wît te arcîva reŝearc rom URï Hîŝtorîc Textîe ad Coŝtume maager Suŝa Jerome, ïowa State Uîverŝîty Textîeŝ ad Cotîg Muŝeum reŝearc aŝŝocîate Suzae LeSar, Jacquîe Dorrace Curator o Faŝîo Deŝîg at te Poeîx Art Muŝeum Hee Jea, ad Newod Rîcardŝo ad Vîrgîîa Vîŝ rom Coŝtume & Textîe Specîaîŝtŝ. hakŝ go to Caro T. Smît ad Erî Homa or teîr edîtorîa ŝkîŝ ad Zoe Aîŝ Perkîŝ or ŝarîg er textîe coŝervatîo expertîŝe. Our edurîg apprecîatîo goeŝ to our uŝadŝ Breda Reddy-Beŝt ad Ared Ordoñez or teîr mora ŝupport ad patîece. We apprecîate te iacîa ŝupport receîved rom Key’ŝ paretŝ, Eîzaet ad Doad Poorma; te Eacemet o Graduate Re-ŝearc Grat rom te URï dea o te Coege o Huma Scîece ad Servîceŝ; ad te Doa R. Daîeŝo Edowmet, admîîŝtered y Euada Saderŝ, departmet caîr ad Doa R. Daîeŝo Pro-eŝŝor î Textîeŝ ad Cotîg, te Departmet o Appare, Evetŝ, ad Hoŝpîtaîty Maagemet. We are taku or te potograpy aŝŝîŝtace rom te ŝtudetŝ workîg î ïowa State Uîverŝîty'ŝ Textîeŝ ad Cotîg Muŝeum îcudîg ïŝaîa Setŝ, Gîger Stacîe, Agîe Gaya, Jeŝŝîca Zuîga, ad Brîdy Arredodo.

vii

viiiAcknowledgments

ï (Key) woud aŝo îke to expreŝŝ my deepeŝt apprecîatîo or Margaret. Margaret ŝerved aŝ my teŝîŝ advîŝor rom 2007 to 2010 at te Uîverŝîty o Rode ïŝad ad cotîued to e a og-term metor ad coaorator. hîŝ ook aŝ ee te greateŝt joy to wrîte aogŝîde Margaret, ad ï am awayŝ grateu or a o our îterac-tîoŝ ad te kowedge ŝe aŝ ŝared wît me aog te way. My career woud ot e were ît îŝ ow wîtout er ŝupport ad ecouragemet. ï ope tat everyoe ca ave a advîŝor, metor, ad og-term coaorator îke Margaret!

Introduction

Carîg or coectîoŝ o twetîet-cetury appare, acceŝŝory, ad textîe ojectŝ, wît teîr cotîuouŝ îovatîoŝ, îŝ a ever-growîg caege. Recogîzîg proematîc Ibers, dyes, Inîses, and abrîc and yarn consrucîons îs essenîa în maînaînîng objecs’ appearance, mînîmîzîng deerîoraîon, and îsoaîng ose a are poenîay armu o oer objecs. Aoug wenîe-cenury magazînes, journas, and websîes ave provîded înormaîon abou probems, a compîaîon o poenîa dîicuîes or peope wo work wî wenîe-cenury exîe and appare coecîons as no ye been pubîsed. Based on înervîews wî expers în e exîe îndusry and revîews o many conemporary pubîcaîons, îs reerence manua provîdes înormaîon on poenîay unsabe wenîe-cenury appare, accessory, and exîe objecs în coec-îons and eîr agîng properîes reaed o andîng, ceanîng, sorîng, and exîbîîng em. Twenîe-cenury pubîcaîons used o creae e cronoogîes încude exîe-scîence exbooks, commercîa journas, conservaîon reerences, and bueîns rom a rade assocîaîon îdenîIed by a varîey o names sînce îs începîon. On Augus , , e Naîona Assocîaîon o Dyers and Ceaners was ormed; en on January , , e organîzaîon announced îs name cange o Naîona ïnsî-ue o Ceanîng and Dyeîng. ïn , e însîue agaîn canged îs name o Naîona ïnsîue o Dryceanîng (NïD), and în , îs group merged wî e Amerîcan ïnsîue o Launderers o orm ïnernaîona Fabrîcare ïnsîue. he aes name cange occurred în  wen î became Dryceanîng and Laundry ïnsîue ïner-naîona (DLï). ï wî be reerred o ereater as DLï excep wen cîîng wenîe-cenury prîmary sources. ïn e ae s, DLï’s ïnernaîona Garmen Anaysîs Laboraory, orîgînay caed e Package Anaysîs Deparmen, began oferîng a very popuar servîce o anayzîng probemaîc garmens or e

Introduction

Voir