Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia, Volume 1
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2010
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278
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2010
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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia, Vol 1 (of 2), by Thomas Mitchell
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Title: Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia, Vol 1 (of 2)
Author: Thomas Mitchell
Release Date: July 27, 2004 [EBook #12928]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EASTERN AUSTRALIA, VOL. 1 ***
Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
THREE EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA;
WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE RECENTLY EXPLORED REGION OF AUSTRALIA FELIX, AND OF THE PRESENT COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
BY MAJOR T.L. MITCHELL, F.G.S. and M.R.G.S.
SURVEYOR-GENERAL.
SECOND EDITION, CAREFULLY REVISED.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOLUME 1.
LONDON: T. and W. BOONE, NEW BOND STREET.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
The following Journals were written at the close of many a laborious day, when the energies both of mind and body were almost exhausted by long-continued toil. The author trusts that this circumstance will account for, and palliate, some of the defects which may be discovered in his volumes. Conscious as he is of the deficiencies of his work, he nevertheless hopes that the reader will not pronounce it to be wholly devoid of interest. Thoug h Australia calls up no historical recollections, no classical associations of ideas, it has other, and not less valid titles to our attention. It is a new and vast country, over the largest portion of which a veil of mystery still hangs; many of its productions vary in a singular manner, from those in other parts of the w orld; within the memory of man one British colony has risen there, in spite of adverse circumstances, to a high degree of prosperity; others have been founded , which promise to be equally successful; and it seems impossible to doubt that, at no distant period, the whole territory will be inhabited by a powerful people, speaking the English language, diffusing around them English civilisation and arts, and exercising a predominant influence over eastern Asia, and the nu merous and extensive islands in that quarter of the globe.
In his expeditions into the interior of Australia, the author was led cheerfully on, by an eager curiosity to examine a country which is yet in the same state as when it was formed by its Maker. With respect to th e narrative of those expeditions, the sole merit which he claims is that of having faithfully described what he attentively observed; neither his pencil nor his pen has been allowed to pass the bounds of truth. There is however one b ranch of his subject on which justice and gratitude render it necessary for him to say something more. In those departments of natural history, to which he owns himself a stranger, he has received assistance of the utmost value from se veral distinguished persons. To the few plants which, after his unfortu nate fellow traveller had sacrificed his life to the pursuit, the writer was able to collect, a permanent place in the botanic system has been given by Dr. Lindley. Much importance has been added to the work, by the researches and d iscoveries which Professor Owen has made, with regard to the fossil remains; and the few particulars gleaned relative to existing animals ha ve enabled Mr. Ogilby to introduce several interesting novelties to the attention of zoologists. To these gentlemen, and also to Professor Faraday, Mr. MacLeay, and other scientific friends, the warmest acknowledgments of the writer are due, for whatever naturalists may deem worthy of praise in these pages.
The aid thus liberally afforded, acting in unison w ith a feeling that, as the surveys were undertaken by order of Government, it is his duty to lay the result of them early before the public, has encouraged the author to persevere steadily in bringing out these volumes; though he must candidly own that, but for these considerations, he would rather have delayed the performance of this
task till he had completed another,* of a national character, which, connected as it is with the days of his early service in the cause of his country, may naturally be supposed to have stronger and more attractive claims upon him.
August 18, 1838.
(*Footnote. Plans of the Fields of Battle in the Peninsula.)
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD GLENELG, HER MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES, ETC. ETC. ETC.
THIS WORK IS WITH PERMISSION DEDICATED BY HIS LORDSHIP'S VERY OBEDIENT AND MOST HUMBLE SERVANT,
T.L. MITCHELL.
PLATE 1: PORTRAIT OF CAMBO, AN ABORIGINAL NATIVE. Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Foggo lithographer. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.
CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1.
JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE KINDUR, IN 1831 AND 1832.
CHAPTER 1.1.
A Bushranger's story. My plan of exploration. Preparations. Departure from Sydney. A garden. Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbury. Beyond the Hawkesbury. Summit of Warrawolong. Natives of Brisbane Water. The Wollombi. Valley of the Hunter. Fossils of the Hunter. Men employed on the expedition. Equipment. Burning grass. Aborigines and Colonists. Cambo, a wild native. A Colonist of the right sort. Escape of the Bushranger, The Barber. Burning Hill of Wingen. Approach Liverpool Range. Cross it. A sick tribe. Interior waters. Liverpool Plains. Proposed route. Horses astray. A Squatter. Native guide and his gin. Modes of drinking au naturel. Woods on fire. Cross the Turi Range. Arrive on the River Peel. Fishes. Another native guide. Explore the Peel.
CHAPTER 1.2.
Enter an unexplored region. Situation of Mr. Oxley's camp on the Peel. Westward course of the river. Kangaroo shot. Calcareous rocks. Acacia pendula first seen. Other trees near the river. Junction of the Peel and Muluerindie.
View from Perimbungay. Ford of Wallanburra. Plains of Mulluba. View from Mount Ydire. Hills seen agree with The Bushranger's account. The river Namoi. Stockyard of The Bushranger. Singular fish. View from Tangulda. Cutting through a thick scrub. Want of water. Impeded by a lofty range of mountains. Marks of natives' feet. Maule's river. A grilled snake. View on ascending the range of Nundewar. Native female. Proposed excursion with packhorses. Native guide absconds. The range impassable. Return to Tangulda. Prepare to launch the boats on the Namoi.
CHAPTER 1.3.
Fires in the Bush. Rocks of Bullabalakit. Boat launched. Bees load my rifle with honey. Embark on the Namoi in canvas boats. Impediments to the navigation. Boat staked, and sinks. The leak patched. She again runs foul of a log. Provisions damaged. Resolve to proceed by land. Pack up the boats, and continue the journey. Pass the western extremity of Nundewar Range. Unknown tree. Water scarce. Providential supply. Crayfish. Trap-hill on plains. Cut through a scrub. Meet a tribe of Natives. Again obliged to cut our way. Fortunate discovery of water. Dry valleys. Mount Frazer. The party in distress for want of water. Water found next day.
Ducks. Wheel Ponds. Excessive heat and drought. Description of the woods. Meet with natives. Cross the dry bed of a river. A friendly native with his family. No water. Reach the Gwydir. Cross it with one man. Prevented by a native with spears, from shooting a kangaroo. Re-cross the river.
CHAPTER 1.4.
Change the route to trace the course of the Gwydir. A native village of bowers. Effect of sudden moisture on the wheels. Tortuous course of the Gwydir. Lines of irrigation across the plains. Heavy rain. Crested pigeon. The party impeded by the soft state of the surface. Lagoons near the river. Excursion northward. Reach a broad sheet of water. Position of the party. The common course of the river, and the situation of the range considered. Nondescript tree and fruit. Plains of rich soil, beautifully wooded. Small branches of the Gwydir. Much frequented by the natives. Laughable interview of Dawkins with a tribe. Again reach the Gwydir. A new cucumber. Cross the river and proceed northward. A night without water. Man lost. Continue northward. Water discovered by my horse. Native weirs for catching fish. Arrive at a large and rapid river. Send back for the party on the Gwydir. Abundance of three kinds of fish. Preparations for crossing the river. Natives approach in the night. View from one tree fastened to another. Mr. White arrives with the party and lost man. Detained by natives. Mr. White crosses the river. Marks of floods on trees.
Man lost in the woods. Natives' method of fishing. Native dog. Mr. White's account of the river.
CHAPTER 1.5.
Excursion down the Karaula. Its unexpected course. Formidable insects. Junction of the Gwydir. Owls and Rats. Natives at the camp during my absence. Their attempts to steal. Native dogs. Tents struck to cross. Arrival of Mr. Finch. Murder of his men. Loss of his horses. And seizure of his stores by the natives. Destroy the boat and retire from the Karaula. Forced march to the Gwydir. Numerous tribes surround the party. Good effects of sky-rockets. Funeral dirge by a native female. Dog killed by a snake. Numerous tribes follow. The party regains the plains.
CHAPTER 1.6.
Proposed movements. Hot wind. Heavy rains set in. Country impassable for several days. Excursion to the plundered camp of Mr. Finch. Recover the cart and trunks. Bury the bodies. Columns of smoke. Signals of the natives. Courage and humanity of one of the men. Homeward journey continued. Difficult travelling. Civility of the tribe first met. Mosquitoes troublesome. Regain the Namoi. Ascend Mount Warroga. Re-cross the Peel. Conclusion.
Meteorological Journalduring the Expedition to the North-west, and kept
commenced on crossing Liverpool Range, December 1, 1831.
EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING, IN 1835.
CHAPTER 2.1.
Supposed course of the Darling. Mr. Dixon's survey of the Bogan. Expedition postponed. Description of the boat carriage. Number and description of the party. Expedition leaves Parramatta. My departure from Sydney. Western part of Cumberland. County of Cook. The Blue Mountains. Weatherboard Inn. Mounts Hay and Tomah. River Grose. Early attempts to trace it upwards. Intended Tunnel. Pass of Mount Victoria. Advantages of convict labour. Country of Mulgoey. Emu plains. Township. General arrangement of towns and villages. The mountain road. Vale of Clywd. Village reserve. Granite formation. Farmer's Creek. River Cox and intended bridge. Mount Walker. Solitary Creek. Honeysuckle Hill. Stony Range. Plains of Bathurst. The town. Inconvenience of want of arrangement in early colonization. Smallfarmers. Intended Bridge. Departure from Bathurst. Charley Booth. Road to Buree. Canobolas. Arrival at the camp of the party.
CHAPTER 2.2.
Ascend the Canobolas. Choose the direction of my route. Ascend the hill north of Buree. Encamp on the Mundadgery. Cross a granitic range. King's Creek. Cross Hervey's range. First view of the interior. Parched state of the interior country. The dogs kill a kangaroo. Steep descent to the westward. Search for water by moonlight. Encamp without any. Follow a valley downwards and find water. Lifeless appearance of the valleys. Luxury of possessing water after long privation. Ascend Mount Juson with Mr. Cunningham. Enter the valley of the Goobang. Meet the natives. Social encampment. Mount Laidley. Springs on the surface of the plains under Croker's range. Cross Goobang Creek. The dogs kill three large kangaroos. Wild honey brought by the natives. Arrive at Tandogo. Allan's water of Oxley. Advantage of aboriginal names on maps. Excursion with Mr. Cunningham. Effects of a hurricane in the forest. Encamp without water. Natives leave the party. Cattle distressed for want of water. Mr. Cunningham missing. Desperate search for water. At length find water on reaching by night the river Bogan. Encamp on this river.
CHAPTER 2.3.
Search for Mr. Cunningham. No traces to be seen. Supposed to have met with an accident. Souter and Murray sent back along the track. My search South-South-West 40 miles. Interview with two natives. Range of porphyry. Mr. Cunningham's track found. Mr. Larmer and a party sent to trace it. Mr. Cunningham's track followed for 70 miles, his horse found dead. His own footsteps traced.
Mr. Larmer meets a tribe. The footsteps traced into the channel of the Bogan. Death of the Kangaroo. Reflections. Five natives brought to me with a silk handkerchief in their possession. Their names. The party halt at Cudduldury. Interview with the King of the Bogan. Muirhead and Whiting sent to examine the dry channel of the river. Search extended to the plains of the Lachlan. Camp of Natives. Pass the night in a hollow without water. View towards Mount Granard. A second night without water. Awoke by the forest on fire. Interview with three natives. Roots of trees sucked by the natives. Horses reach the camp with great difficulty. Part of Mr. Cunningham's coat found.
CHAPTER 2.4.
Continue along the Bogan, guided by the natives. Their caution in approaching the haunts of others. Their accurate knowledge of localities. Introduced to the Bungan tribe. Superiority of the King how displayed. Dangerous mistake. A true savage. The king of the Bogan takes his leave. Kangaroos numerous. Beauty of the shrubs. Dangerous consequence of surprising a native. Wounded native led to our camp. His confidence gained by kind treatment. Oxley's Tableland. Mr. Larmer's excursion to it. Narrow escape from the loss of the cattle. The party followed by a clamorous tribe. A parley. Their various complexions. Decorous behaviour. Naked plains. A native visitor. Soft earth of the plains. Ride to the Darling. The water sweet. The party encamps on a favourable position on the river.
CHAPTER 2.5.
