The Innocents Abroad — Volume 05

pages

English

Documents

2010

Écrit par
Mark Twain

Publié par
ussu

Lire

Le téléchargement nécessite un accès à la bibliothèque YouScribe Tout savoir sur nos offres

pages

English

Documents

2010

Lire

Le téléchargement nécessite un accès à la bibliothèque YouScribe Tout savoir sur nos offres

Publié par

ussu

Publié le

08 décembre 2010

Nombre de lectures

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

1 Mo

THE INNOCENTS ABROAD BY TWAIN, Part 5
The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Innocents Abroad, Part 5 of 6 by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
Title: The Innocents Abroad, Part 5 of 6 Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) Release Date: June 16, 2004 [EBook #5692] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE INNOCENTS ABROAD, PART 5 OF 6 ***
Produced by David Widger
THE INNOCENTS ABROAD
Part 5, Chapters 41 to 49
by Mark Twain
[Cover and Spine from the 1884 Edition]
INNOCENTS ABROAD
by Mark Twain
[From an 1869—1st Edition]
CONTENTS
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
CHAPTER XLI.
Vandalism Prohibited—Angry Pilgrims—Approaching Holy Land!—The "Shrill Note of Preparation"—Distress About Dragomans and Transportation—The "Long Route" Adopted—In Syria—Something about Beirout—A Choice Specimen of a Greek "Ferguson"—Outfits—Hideous Horseflesh—Pilgrim "Style"—What of Aladdin's Lamp?
CHAPTER XLII.
"Jacksonville," in the Mountains of Lebanon—Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama—The Vanished City—The Peculiar Steed, "Jericho"—The Pilgrims Progress—Bible Scenes—Mount Hermon, Joshua's Battle Fields, etc.—The Tomb of Noah—A Most Unfortunate People
CHAPTER XLIII.
Patriarchal Customs—Magnificent ...

Voir

Publié par

ussu

Publié le

08 décembre 2010

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

1 Mo

[Cover and Spine from the 1884 Edition]

INNOCENTS ABROADby Mark Twain[From an 1869—1st Edition]

CONTENTSLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONSCHAPTER XLI.Vandalism Prohibited—Angry Pilgrims—Approaching Holy Land!—The "ShrillNote of Preparation"—Distress About Dragomans and Transportation—The"Long Route" Adopted—In Syria—Something about Beirout—A ChoiceSpecimen of a Greek "Ferguson"—Outfits—Hideous Horseflesh—Pilgrim"Style"What of Aladdin's Lamp?—CHAPTER XLII."Jacksonville," in the Mountains of Lebanon—Breakfasting above a GrandPanorama—The Vanished City—The Peculiar Steed, "Jericho"—The PilgrimsProgress—Bible Scenes—Mount Hermon, Joshua's Battle Fields, etc.—TheTomb of Noah—A Most Unfortunate PeopleCHAPTER XLIII.

Patriarchal Customs—Magnificent Baalbec—Description of the Ruins—Scribbling Smiths and Joneses—Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Law—TheRevered Fountain of Baalam's AssCHAPTER XLIV.Extracts from Note-Book—Mahomet's Paradise and the Bible's—BeautifulDamascus the Oldest City on Earth—Oriental Scenes within the Curious OldCity—Damascus Street Car—The Story of St. Paul—The "Street calledStraight"—Mahomet's Tomb and St. George's—The Christian Massacre—Mohammedan Dread of Pollution—The House of Naaman—The Horrors ofLeprosyCHAPTER XLV.The Cholera by way of Variety—Hot—Another Outlandish Procession—Penand-Ink Photograph of "Jonesborough," Syria—Tomb of Nimrod, the MightyHunter—The Stateliest Ruin of All—Stepping over the Borders of Holy-Land—Bathing in the Sources of Jordan—More "Specimen" Hunting—Ruins ofCesarea—Philippi—"On This Rock Will I Build my Church"—The People theDisciples Knew—The Noble Steed "Baalbec"—Sentimental Horse Idolatry ofthe ArabsCHAPTER XLVI.Dan—Bashan—Genessaret—A Notable Panorama—Smallness of Palestine—Scraps of History—Character of the Country—Bedouin Shepherds—Glimpsesof the Hoary Past—Mr. Grimes's Bedouins—A Battle—Ground of Joshua—ThatSoldier's Manner of Fighting—Barak's Battle—The Necessity of UnlearningSome Things—DesolationCHAPTER XLVII."Jack's Adventure"—Joseph's Pit—The Story of Joseph—Joseph'sMagnanimity and Esau's—The Sacred Lake of Genessaret—Enthusiasm of thePilgrims—Why We did not Sail on Galilee—About Capernaum—Concerningthe Saviour's Brothers and Sisters—Journeying toward MagdelaCHAPTER XLVIII.Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture—Public Reception of the Pilgrims—Mary Magdalen's House—Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants—The Sacred Seaof Galilee—Galilee by NightCHAPTER XLIX.The Ancient Baths—Ye Apparition—A Distinguished Panorama—The LastBattle of the Crusades—The Story of the Lord of Kerak—Mount Tabor—Whatone Sees from its Top—Memory of a Wonderful Garden—The House ofDeborah the Prophetess LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

1 THE QUAKER CITY IN A STORM—FRONTPIECE2 ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE-THE PILGRIM'S VISION159 THE SELECTION160 CAMPING OUT161 ARABS' TENTS162 A GOOD FEEDER163 INTERESTING FETE164 SUNDAY SCHOOL GRAPES165 AN OLD FOGY166 RACE WITH A CAMEL167 TEMPLE OF TILE SUN168 RUINS OF BAALBEC169 HEWN STONES IN QUARRY170 MERCY171 PATRON SAINT172 WATER CAPRIER173 VIEW OF DAMASCUS174 STREET CARS OF DAMASCUS175 FULL DRESSED TOURIST176 IMPROMPTU HOSPITAL177 THE HORSE "BAALBEC"178 OAR OF BASLIAN179 DANGEROUS ARAB180 GRIMES ON THE WAR-PATH181 BEDOUIN CAMP182 HOME OF ANCIENT POMP183 JACK184 A DISAPPOINTED AUDIENCE185 FIG-TREE186 "FARE TOO HIGH"187 SYRIAN HOUSE188 TIBERIAS AND SEA OF GALILEE189 THE GUARD190 MOUNT TABOR191 GATHERING FUELCHAPTER XLI.When I last made a memorandum, we were at Ephesus. We are in Syria,now, encamped in the mountains of Lebanon. The interregnum has been long,both as to time and distance. We brought not a relic from Ephesus! Aftergathering up fragments of sculptured marbles and breaking ornaments from theinterior work of the Mosques; and after bringing them at a cost of infinite troubleand fatigue, five miles on muleback to the railway depot, a government officercompelled all who had such things to disgorge! He had an order fromConstantinople to look out for our party, and see that we carried nothing off. Itwas a wise, a just, and a well-deserved rebuke, but it created a sensation. Inever resist a temptation to plunder a stranger's premises without feelinginsufferably vain about it. This time I felt proud beyond expression. I was serenein the midst of the scoldings that were heaped upon the Ottoman government

for its affront offered to a pleasuring party of entirely respectable gentlemen andladies I said, "We that have free souls, it touches us not." The shoe not onlypinched our party, but it pinched hard; a principal sufferer discovered that theimperial order was inclosed in an envelop bearing the seal of the BritishEmbassy at Constantinople, and therefore must have been inspired by therepresentative of the Queen. This was bad—very bad. Coming solely from theOttomans, it might have signified only Ottoman hatred of Christians, and avulgar ignorance as to genteel methods of expressing it; but coming from theChristianized, educated, politic British legation, it simply intimated that we werea sort of gentlemen and ladies who would bear watching! So the party regardedit, and were incensed accordingly. The truth doubtless was, that the sameprecautions would have been taken against any travelers, because the EnglishCompany who have acquired the right to excavate Ephesus, and have paid agreat sum for that right, need to be protected, and deserve to be. They can notafford to run the risk of having their hospitality abused by travelers, especiallysince travelers are such notorious scorners of honest behavior.We sailed from Smyrna, in the wildest spirit of expectancy, for the chieffeature, the grand goal of the expedition, was near at hand—we wereapproaching the Holy Land! Such a burrowing into the hold for trunks that hadlain buried for weeks, yes for months; such a hurrying to and fro above decksand below; such a riotous system of packing and unpacking; such a littering upof the cabins with shirts and skirts, and indescribable and unclassable oddsand ends; such a making up of bundles, and setting apart of umbrellas, greenspectacles and thick veils; such a critical inspection of saddles and bridles thathad never yet touched horses; such a cleaning and loading of revolvers andexamining of bowie-knives; such a half-soling of the seats of pantaloons withserviceable buckskin; then such a poring over ancient maps; such a reading upof Bibles and Palestine travels; such a marking out of routes; such exasperatingefforts to divide up the company into little bands of congenial spirits who mightmake the long and arduous Journey without quarreling; and morning, noon andnight, such mass-meetings in the cabins, such speech-making, such sagesuggesting, such worrying and quarreling, and such a general raising of thevery mischief, was never seen in the ship before!But it is all over now. We are cut up into parties of six or eight, and by thistime are scattered far and wide. Ours is the only one, however, that is venturingon what is called "the long trip"—that is, out into Syria, by Baalbec toDamascus, and thence down through the full length of Palestine. It would be atedious, and also a too risky journey, at this hot season of the year, for any butstrong, healthy men, accustomed somewhat to fatigue and rough life in theopen air. The other parties will take shorter journeys.For the last two months we have been in a worry about one portion of thisHoly Land pilgrimage. I refer to transportation service. We knew very well thatPalestine was a country which did not do a large passenger business, andevery man we came across who knew any thing about it gave us to understandthat not half of our party would be able to get dragomen and animals. AtConstantinople every body fell to telegraphing the American Consuls atAlexandria and Beirout to give notice that we wanted dragomen andtransportation. We were desperate—would take horses, jackasses,cameleopards, kangaroos—any thing. At Smyrna, more telegraphing wasdone, to the same end. Also fearing for the worst, we telegraphed for a largenumber of seats in the diligence for Damascus, and horses for the ruins ofBaalbec.As might have been expected, a notion got abroad in Syria and Egypt thatthe whole population of the Province of America (the Turks consider us a triflinglittle province in some unvisited corner of the world,) were coming to the HolyLand—and so, when we got to Beirout yesterday, we found the place full ofdragomen and their outfits. We had all intended to go by diligence to

dragomen and their outfits. We had all intended to go by diligence toDamascus, and switch off to Baalbec as we went along—because we expectedto rejoin the ship, go to Mount Carmel, and take to the woods from there.However, when our own private party of eight found that it was possible, andproper enough, to make the "long trip," we adopted that programme. We havenever been much trouble to a Consul before, but we have been a fearfulnuisance to our Consul at Beirout. I mention this because I can not helpadmiring his patience, his industry, and his accommodating spirit. I mention italso, because I think some of our ship's company did not give him as full creditfor his excellent services as he deserved.Well, out of our eight, three were selected to attend to all business connectedwith the expedition. The rest of us had nothing to do but look at the beautiful cityof Beirout, with its bright, new houses nestled among a wilderness of greenshrubbery spread abroad over an upland that sloped gently down to the sea;and also at the mountains of Lebanon that environ it; and likewise to bathe inthe transparent blue water that rolled its billows about the ship (we did not knowthere were sharks there.) We had also to range up and down through the townand look at the costumes. These are picturesque and fanciful, but not so variedas at Constantinople and Smyrna; the women of Beirout add an agony—in thetwo former cities the sex wear a thin veil which one can see through (and theyoften expose their ancles,) but at Beirout they cover their entire faces with dark-colored or black veils, so that they look like mummies, and then expose theirbreasts to the public. A young gentleman (I believe he was a Greek,)volunteered to show us around the city, and said it would afford him greatpleasure, because he was studying English and wanted practice in thatlanguage. When we had finished the rounds, however, he called forremuneration—said he hoped the gentlemen would give him a trifle in the wayof a few piastres (equivalent to a few five cent pieces.) We did so. The Consulwas surprised when he heard it, and said he knew the young fellow's familyvery well, and that they were an old and highly respectable family and worth ahundred and fifty thousand dollars! Some people, so situated, would have beenashamed of the berth he had with us and his manner of crawling into it.At the appointed time our business committee reported, and said all thingswere in readdress—that we were to start to-day, with horses, pack animals, andtents, and go to Baalbec, Damascus, the Sea of Tiberias, and thencesouthward by the way of the scene of Jacob's Dream and other notable Biblelocalities to Jerusalem—from thence probably to the Dead Sea, but possiblynot—and then strike for the ocean and rejoin the ship three or four weeks henceat Joppa; terms, five dollars a day apiece, in gold, and every thing to befurnished by the dragoman. They said we would lie as well as at a hotel. I hadread something like that before, and did not shame my judgment by believing aword of it. I said nothing, however, but packed up a blanket and a shawl tosleep in, pipes and tobacco, two or three woollen shirts, a portfolio, a guide-book, and a Bible. I also took along a towel and a cake of soap, to inspirerespect in the Arabs, who would take me for a king in disguise.

Voir