Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia, Volume 2
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2010
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2010
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Title: Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Author: George Grey
Release Date: June 29, 2005 [EBook #16145]
Language: English
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*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF TWO EXPEDITIONS ***
Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
JOURNALS OF TWO EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY IN NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA, DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, AND 1839,
Under the Authority of Her Majesty's Government.
DESCRIBING MANY NEWLY DISCOVERED, IMPORTANT, AND FERTILE DISTRICTS, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE MORAL AND PHYSICAL CONDITION OF THE ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS, ETC. ETC.
BY GEORGE GREY, ESQUIRE.
GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA; Late Captain of the Eighty-third Regiment.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOLUME 2.
LONDON: T. AND W. BOONE, 29 NEW BOND STREET.
1841.
1. Native of Western Australia. Captain Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers.
CONTENTS OF VOLUME 2.
CHAPTER 1. FROM GANTHEAUME BAY TO THE HUTT RIVER.
WRECK OF THE SECOND BOAT IN GANTHEAUME BAY. EXPLORE IN ITS VICINITY. ESTUARY AND SCENERY ABOUT IT. PROVISIONS DIVIDED. START FOR PERTH. GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. CROSS A DISTRICT OF RED SANDSTONE. PLAINS ABOUNDING IN THE WARRAN PLANT. SUPERIOR NATIVE PATHS AND WELLS. ESTUARY OF THE HUTT. DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND SCENERY. PROGRESS OPPOSED BY NATIVES. THE HUTT RIVER. FIRST HILLS OF THE SOUTHERN IRONSTONE FORMATION.
CHAPTER 2. FROM THE HUTT RIVER TO WATER PEAK.
WILD TURKEYS SEEN. DIFFICULTY OF URGING THE PARTY FORWARD. THE BOWES RIVER. NATIVE HUTS. THE VICTORIA RANGE AND DISTRICT. THE BULLER RIVER.
THE CHAPMAN RIVER. SEARCH FOR A MISSING MAN. SCENE WITH NATIVES. RETURN OF PARTY FROM SEARCH. THE MAN FOUND. THE GREENOUGH RIVER. CROSS THE HEADS OF TWO BAYS. MORE NATIVE HUTS. AUSTRALIND. THE IRWIN RIVER. SEARCH FOR WATER. WATER PEAK HILL. BENIGHTED IN RETURNING TO THE PARTY.
CHAPTER 3. FROM WATER PEAK TO GAIRDNER'S RANGE.
RETURN TO THE PARTY. DESTRUCTION OF USELESS BAGGAGE. CRITICAL SITUATION. DIVIDE THE PARTY, AND PROCEED WITH THE STRONGEST TO PERTH FOR ASSISTANCE. ARRANGEMENTS AT STARTING. THE ARROWSMITH RIVER. NATIVES. MOUNT HORNER. GAIRDNER'S RANGE. GENEROUS CONDUCT OF ONE OF THE MEN.
CHAPTER 4. FROM GAIRDNER'S RANGE TO PERTH.
THE HILL RIVER. DISCOVERY OF A NATIVE PROVISION STORE. BARREN COUNTRY. SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST. SMITH'S RIVER. LONG AND UTTER DESTITUTION OF FOOD AND WATER. UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR WATER WITH KAIBER. HIS TREACHEROUS INTENTIONS. RETURN TO THE MEN. DISTRESSING SYMPTOMS FROM THIRST. LAST EFFORTS. FORTUNATE DISCOVERY OF A MOIST MUD-HOLE. PANGS OF HUNGER. RIVER OF RUNNING WATER. NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS. MISERY FROM RAIN AND COLD. PASS THE MOORE RIVER. JOYFUL INTERVIEW WITH A FRIENDLY TRIBE. NATIVE HOSPITALITY. SUPERSTITIONS OF MY MEN. ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION AT PERTH.
CHAPTER 5. FROM WATER PEAK TO PERTH.
(MR. WALKER'S PARTY.)
PARTY SENT IN SEARCH FROM PERTH. RETURN WITH CHARLES WOODS. SECOND PARTY IN SEARCH, UNDER MR. ROE. ARRIVAL OF MR. WALKER AT PERTH. NARRATIVE OF THEIR PROCEEDINGS FROM WATER PEAK. EXTREME DISTRESS FROM HUNGER AND THIRST. DEATH OF MR. SMITH.
TIMELY DISCOVERY OF THE REST BY MR. ROE. MR. ROE'S REPORT.
CHAPTER 6. SUMMARY OF DISCOVERIES.
RIVERS AND MOUNTAIN RANGES DISCOVERED. DISTRICTS OF BABBAGE AND VICTORIA. MR. MOORE'S VOYAGE TO HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS AND PORT GREY. DISTRICT TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.
CHAPTER 7. VOYAGE HOMEWARDS.
NATURAL HISTORY.
CHAPTER 8. THE OVERLANDERS.
CLASS OF PERSONS. THEIR MODE OF LIFE. SUDDEN ACCUMULATION OF WEALTH. EFFECTS OF THEIR ENTERPRISES. MAGNITUDE OF THEIR OPERATIONS. RAPID INCREASE OF WEALTH IN NEW SETTLEMENTS. SPREAD OF STOCK STATIONS. COURSE OF THE OVERLANDERS THROUGH AUSTRALIA. COMMUNICATION BETWEEN SOUTHERN AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA. GENERAL CONSEQUENCES OF THE SPREAD OF COMMERCE AND EMIGRATION.
THE ABORIGINES.
CHAPTER 9. NATIVE LANGUAGE.
RADICALLY THE SAME THROUGHOUT THE CONTINENT. CAUSES OF A CONTRARY OPINION. DIFFERENCE OF DIALECTS. EXAMPLES. CAUSES OF ERROR IN FORMER ENQUIRERS.
CHAPTER 10. THEIR TRADITIONAL LAWS.
ERRORS OF THEORETICAL WRITERS REGARDING THE SAVAGE STATE. COMPLEX LAWS OF SAVAGE LIFE. CONSIDERATIONS ON THEIR ORIGIN.
CHAPTER 11. LAWS OF RELATIONSHIP, MARRIAGE, AND INHERITANCE.
RELATIONSHIP AND MARRIAGE. DIVISION OF FAMILIES. LAW OF MARRIAGE. COINCIDENT INSTITUTIONS AMONGST INDIANS. ORIGIN OF FAMILY NAMES. SECOND COINCIDENCE. BETROTHMENTS. WIDOWS. OBLIGATIONS OF RELATIONSHIP. DIFFICULTY OF PURSUING THE ENQUIRY. PROPERTY VESTED IN INDIVIDUALS. UNIVERSALITY OF THIS CUSTOM. LINE OF INHERITANCE. CERTAIN LAWS REGARDING FOOD.
CHAPTER 12. CRIMES AND PUNISHMENTS.
THE
NORTH
AMERICAN
SUPERSTITIOUS REVENGE OF NATURAL DEATH. MURDER. STEALING A WIFE. BREACH OF MARRIAGE LAWS. IMPLICATION OF A MURDERER'S FAMILY IN HIS CRIME. ORDEAL AND PUNISHMENT FOR OTHER TRANSGRESSIONS.
CHAPTER 13. SOCIAL CONDITION AND DOMESTIC HABITS.
POPULATION. TERM OF LIFE. CONDITION OF OLD AGE. AND OF YOUNG WOMEN. AVERAGE PROPORTION OF BIRTHS. IDIOTS AND LUNATICS. INFLUENCE OF POLYGAMY ON SOCIAL HABITS. MODE OF CONVERSATIONAL INTERCOURSE. CONSEQUENCES OF JEALOUSY. DANCES. CEREMONIES ON MEETING.
CHAPTER 14. FOOD AND HUNTING.
ERRORS REGARDING SCARCITY OF THEIR FOOD. VARIETIES OF IT IN DIFFERENT LATITUDES. CAUSES OF OCCASIONAL WANT. LIST OF EDIBLE ARTICLES. IMPLEMENTS FOR DESTROYING ANIMALS. CONTENTS OF A NATIVE WOMAN'S BAG. DIFFERENT METHODS OF CATCHING KANGAROOS. COOKING A KANGAROO. METHODS OF TAKING AND COOKING FISH. FEASTING ON A STRANDED WHALE. KILLING WILD DOGS. TURTLE. BIRDS. OPOSSUMS. FROGS. SHELLFISH. GRUBS, AND WALLABIES. EDIBLE ROOTS AND SEEDS. MODE OF COOKING AND PREPARING THEM. FUNGI. GUMS. COMMON RIGHTS IN CERTAIN FOOD.
CHAPTER 15. SONGS AND POETRY.
GENERAL PRACTICE OF SINGING. SONG OF AN OLD MAN IN WRATH. POETS. TRADITIONAL SONGS. NATIVE OPINION OF EUROPEAN SINGING. EXAMPLES OF SONGS FOR VARIOUS OCCASIONS. INFLUENCE OF SONGS IN ROUSING THE ANGRY PASSIONS OF THE MEN.
CHAPTER 16. FUNERAL REMARKABLE CUSTOMS.
CEREMONIES,
SUPERSTITIONS,
AND
DEATH AND BURIAL OF A NATIVE NEAR PERTH. BURIAL OF A NATIVE IN THE LESCHENAULT DISTRICT. CUSTOM OF LACERATING THEMSELVES, AND WATCHING AMONG THE GRAVES.
GRAVES. THE BOYL-YAS OR NATIVE SORCERERS. KAIBER'S ACCOUNT OF THEM. THEIR OPINION OF THE NIGHTMARE. VENERATION FOR CRYSTAL STONES. CIRCUMCISION. OTHER CUSTOMS.
CHAPTER 17. CHARACTERISTIC ANECDOTES.
MIAGO'S IMAGINARY SPEECH AS GOVERNOR. WARRUP'S ACCOUNT OF HIS JOURNEY WITH MR. ROE. TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES IN A CASE OF POTATO STEALING. JUDICIAL CASE OF ASSAULT.
CHAPTER 18. INFLUENCE OF EUROPEANS ON THE NATIVES.
CAUSES WHY IT HAS NOT HITHERTO BEEN BENEFICIAL. WRETCHED STATE OF THE NATIVE POPULATION. PREJUDICES AGAINST THEM. EVIL EFFECTS FROM THEIR FEROCIOUS CUSTOMS REMAINING UNCHECKED. PLAN FOR PROMOTING THEIR CIVILIZATION.
VOLUME 2.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
1. Native of Western Australia. Captain Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers.
2. Mount Victoria and Mount Albert.
3. Glaucus, Sp.
3a. Janthina.
4. Cymothoa, Sp.
5. Stenopteryx, Sp.
6. Form of basaltic dykes at Gregory's Valley, St. Helena.
7. Geological Section from Gregory's Valley, St. Helena.
8. Crossing Cattle over the Murray, near Lake Alexandrina. Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by G. Hamilton, Esquire. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place.
9. Basaltic Rocks, Campaspi River, near Port Phillip. Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by G. Hamilton, Esquire. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place. Published by T. & W. Boone, London.
REPTILES AND AMPHIBIA.
10.1. Ronia catenulata (Gray). 10.2. Aprasia pulchella (Gray). 10.3. Delma fraseri (Gray).
11.1. Lialis burtonii (Gray). 11.2. Soridia lineata (Gray).
12. Moloch horridus (Gray).
13.1. Elaps gouldii (Gray). 13.2. Elaps coronatus (Schlegel). 13.3. Calamaria diadema (Schlegel). 13.4. Lialis burtonii (Gray).
14. Hydraspis australis (Gray).
15. Chelodina oblonga (Gray).
16.1. Hyla binoculata (Gray). 16.2. Hyla adelaidensis (Gray).
17.1. Breviceps gouldii (Gray). 17.2. Helioporus albo punctatus (Gray). 17.2.a. fore foot. 17.2.b. hind foot.
INSECTS.
18. INSECTS 1. Brachysternus (E.) lamprimoides.
19.1. INSECTS 2. Biphyllocera kirbyana. 19.2. INSECTS 2. Biphyllocera fabriciana.
20. INSECTS 3. Helaeus echidna.
21. INSECTS 4. Bardistus cibarius.
22. INSECTS 5. Tympanophora pellucida.
23. INSECTS 6. Choerocydnus foveolatus.
24. INSECTS 7. Hesperia sophia.
25. INSECTS 8.1.a. Hecatesia thyridion female. 25. INSECTS 8.1.b. Hecatesia thyridion male upper side. 25. INSECTS 8.1.c. Hecatesia thyridion under. 25. INSECTS 8.1.d. Hecatesia thyridion fenestra in wing of male. 25. INSECTS 8.2. Hecatesia fenestrata male.
26. INSECTS 9. Cossodes lyonetii.
27. INSECTS 10. Trichetra isabella male.
28. INSECTS 11. Trichetra isabella female.
APPENDIX.
A. Genealogical List, to show the manner in which a native family becomes divided.
B. Mount Fairfax, the Wizard Hills, and Champion Bay.
C. Contributions towards the Geographical distribution of the Mammalia of Australia, with notes on some recently discovered Species, by J.E. Gray, F.R.S., etc. etc., in a letter addressed to the Author.
D. A List of the Birds of the Western coast, furnished by Mr. Gould.
E. A Catalogue of the Species of Reptiles and Amphibia hitherto described as inhabiting Australia, with a description of some New Species from Western Australia, and some remarks on their geographical distribution, by John Edward Gray, F.R.S., etc. etc., in a note to the author.
F. Notes on some Insects from KingGeorge's Sound, collected andpresented
to the British Museum, by Captain George Grey, by Adam White, Esquire, British Museum, addressed in a letter to the author.
JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY.
CHAPTER 1. FROM GANTHEAUME BAY TO THE HUTT RIVER.
WRECK OF THE SECOND BOAT IN GANTHEAUME BAY.
A few moments were sufficient to enable us all to recollect ourselves: two men endeavoured to keep the boat's stern on to the sea, whilst the rest of us lightened her by carrying everything we could on shore, after which we hauled her up. The custom had always been for the other boat to lie off until I made the signal for them to run in, and it accordingly was now waiting outside the breakers. Her crew had not seen our misfortunes owing to the height of the surf, which, when we were under it, shut us out from their view, and now perceiving that we were on shore and the boat hauled up, they concluded all was right; and notwithstanding I made every possible sign to them not to beach, running as far as I could venture into the sea and shouting out to them, my voice was drowned by the roar of the surge, and I saw them bounding on to, what I thought, certain destruction. We of course were all turned to render assistance. They fortunately kept rather to the south of the spot on which we had beached, and where it was much less rocky, so that the danger they incurred in reaching the shore was slight in comparison to ours; yet some of the planks of this boat were split throughout their entire length.
EXPLORE IN ITS VICINITY. COUNTRY ABOUT GANTHEAUME B AY. GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. CROSS A DISTRICT OF RED SANDSTONE.
Whilst all hands were employed in endeavouring to repair damages I ascended a hill to reconnoitre our present position and found we were in a country of a pleasing and romantic appearance, and although the land was not good the nature of the soil made me aware that we were most probably in the vicinity of a large tract of better quality; indeed this was the only part of South-west Australia in which I had met with the ancient red sandstone of the north-west coast; immediately behind the sandhills on which I stood was a thick Casuarina scrub which sloped down into a deep valley, and beyond this rose lofty and fantastic hills. After I had for some time looked round on this scene I returned to the party and received the report of the carpenters, who, having examined the boats, stated their inability to render either of them fit for sea. To this I had already made up my mind; and even if the boats had been uninjured I doubt whether we could ever have got them off again through the tremendous surf which was breaking on this part of the shore; whilst to have moved them to any distance would, in our present weak and enfeebled state, have been utterly impossible.
ESTUARY AND LANDING-PLACE AND SCENERY ABOUT IT.
No resource was now left to us but to endeavour to reach Perth by walking; yet when I looked at the sickly faces of some of the party and saw their wasted forms I much doubted if they retained strength to execute such a task; but they themselves were in high spirits and talked of the undertaking as a mere trifle. I gave orders for the necessary preparations to be made and then started with two or three hands to search for water. On reaching the valley I have before mentioned we found a small stream, and following this to the northward for about a mile came out upon one of the most romantic and picturesque-looking estuaries I had yet seen: its shores abounded with springs and were bordered by native paths, whilst the drooping foliage of several large sorts of Casuarina,
the number of wild swans on its placid bosom, and the natives fishing in the distance, unconscious of our presence, imparted to the whole scene a quiet and a charm which was deeply felt by those who had now for so many days been either tossed about by the winds and waves or had long been wandering over barren and inhospitable shores. We did not indeed find much good land about this estuary, but there were rich flats upon each side of it, whilst the nature of the rocks and the lofty and peculiar character of the distant hills gave promise of the most fertile region I had yet seen in extra-tropical Australia.
We followed the shores of the estuary to the northward and eastward until we saw a point where it appeared to separate into two branches. The natives decamped as soon as they observed us coming, and Kaiber, who watched them with the most intense interest, indulged in various speculations as to the number they would bring back when they returned. We joined the party and traced the shores of the estuary to its mouth, which turned out to be the opening we saw in the morning: this mouth is completely sheltered by a line of breakers and reefs, which, although they present a most formidable appearance from the sea, can be doubled by keeping pretty close along the shore in approaching the mouth of the river. Owing to this reef there are no breakers on the bar, but its mouth is very narrow and so shoal that I doubt if a boat could be got in at any other time than high water: some of the sailors with me however thought otherwise; but there is at all events convenient landing at this point under the shelter of the reef.
FERTILE COUNTRY.
April 2.
The men not having quite completed their preparations for starting, I moved off at dawn to resume the survey of Gantheaume Bay and its vicinity. The estuary appeared this morning even more lovely than yesterday, and as the heavy morning mists arose, unfolding its beauties to our view, all those feelings came thrilling through my mind which explorers alone can know; flowering shrubs and trees, drooping foliage, a wide and placid expanse of water met the view; trickling springs and fertile flats were passed over by us; there was much barren land visible in the distance, though many a sign and token might lead the practical explorer to hope that he was about to enter upon a tract of an extent and fertility yet unknown in south-west Australia. A total change had taken place in the geological formation of the land: a rock as yet unobserved in the south-west portion of the continent occupied the principal place here; and with this rock was associated limestone; the springs had a strong sulphureous smell, and the lofty broken character of the distant mountains had an almost grand appearance to those who had so long wandered through low and level countries.
Each step I took rendered my spirits more buoyant and elastic, and each hill, the position of which I fixed, gave me, from its appearance, renewed hopes. Under such agreeable circumstances the morning wore rapidly away, and, having rendered my survey as complete as I could, we returned to the boats.
COMMENCE THE MARCH TO PERTH. PROVISIONS DIVIDED.
We were now all ready to commence our toilsome journey; the provisions had been shared out; twenty pounds of flour and one pound of salt provisions per man, being all that was left. What I have here designated by the name of flour was quite unworthy of being so called. It was of a dark yellowish brown colour, and had such a sour fermented taste that nothing but absolute necessity could induce anyone to eat it. The party however were in high spirits; they talked of a walk of three hundred miles in a direct line through the country (without taking hills, valleys, and necessary deviations into account) as a trifle, and in imagination were already feasting at home and taking their ease after the toils they had undergone.
Igave them all warningof the manydifficulties theyhadyet to encounter, and
Igavethemallwarningofthemanydifficultiestheyhadyettoencounter,and did this not with the intention of damping their ardour but in the hope of inducing them to abandon some portion of the loads they intended to carry. I entrusted a small pocket chronometer to Mr. Walker, and another to Corporals Coles and Auger; and to Ruston I gave charge of a pocket-sextant which belonged to the Surveyor-General at Perth. Coles and Auger also undertook to carry a large sextant, turn about; all my own papers, such charts as I thought necessary, and some smaller instruments I bore myself; but Kaiber, in order to relieve me, took charge of my gun and some other articles. Mr. Smith carried his sketchbook and box of colours. I ought here to state that, in all the difficulties which beset those individuals to whom I entrusted anything, they never, except on one occasion, and by my orders, abandoned it: indeed I do not believe that there is a stronger instance of fidelity and perseverance than was evinced by some of the party in retaining, under every difficulty, possession of that which they had promised to preserve for me.
PICTURESQUE HALTING-PLACE.
Our loads having been hoisted on our shoulders away we moved. I had before chosen my line of route, and the plan I had resolved to adopt was to walk on slowly but continuously for an hour, and then to halt for ten minutes; during which interval of time the men could rest and relieve themselves from the weight of their burdens whilst I could enter what notes and bearings I had taken during the preceding hour.
We were embarrassed for the first portion of our journey this afternoon by a thick scrub, through which we could only make our way with great difficulty, but on coming to a watercourse running into the southern part of Gantheaume Bay from the south-east I turned up its bed, and we were then able to move along with tolerable facility. This watercourse ran at the bottom of a red sandstone ravine resembling the old red sandstone of England; and the remainder of the evening was spent in clambering about the rocks and endeavouring to avoid such natural obstacles as impeded our route. Our progress was slow, and just before nightfall I turned up a branch ravine trending to the southward, when we soon found ourselves at the foot of a lofty cascade down which a little water was slowly dropping; and on climbing to its summit it appeared to be so well adapted for a halting-place for the night that I determined to remain here. The men made themselves comfortable near the waterholes, and Mr. Smith and myself crept into a little cave which occasionally served as a resting-place for the natives, the remains of whose fires were scattered about. A wild woodland and rocky scenery was around us; and when the moon rose and shed her pale light over all I sat with Mr. Smith on the edge of the waterfall, gazing alternately into the dim woody abyss below, and at the red fires and picturesque groups of men, than which fancy could scarcely image a wilder scene.
NATIVE PATH AND WELL.
April 3.
Before the day had fully dawned we were under weigh. Our course for the first mile or two was embarrassed by ravines and scrub similar to that we had yesterday met with; our progress was therefore very slow, but we at length emerged on elevated sandy downs, thickly clothed with banksia trees, and across these we came upon a well-beaten native path running to the south by east, which was exactly our line of route. We had not followed this path for more than four miles when we found a most romantically-situated native well, surrounded by shrubs and graceful wattle trees, and of a depth and size such as we had never before observed. Here then we seated ourselves, and upon such scanty fare as we had made a sparing breakfast. This however but very insufficiently supplied our wants; and as we sat at this little well, thus surrounded with such fairy scenery, a variety of philosophic reflections crossed our minds and found vent in words. Nothing could be more delightfully romantic than our present position. Both as regarded danger, scenery, savages, and unknown lands, we were inprecisely the situation in which Mr. Cooper and
